Filament Temperature Guide
Updated October 2026. These are starting points for the filament we make and sell today. Every printer is a little different: start in the middle of the range, change one thing at a time in 5°C steps, and write down what works. A clean, level bed matters more than any number below; wipe PEI sheets with isopropyl alcohol and keep fingers off the surface.
Our own lines at a glance
| Material | Nozzle | Bed | Part fan | Enclosure | Shop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EconoFil PLA | 190–210°C | 45–60°C | 100% after layer 2 | No | EconoFil PLA |
| Select Matte PLA / Select Silk PLA | 190–210°C (silk looks best at the top of the range) | 45–60°C | 100% | No | Select |
| Hyper PLA (high-speed) | 200–230°C; use the top of the range above 200 mm/s | 45–60°C | 100% | No | Hyper PLA |
| EconoFil PETG / Select PETG | 220–260°C (start at 240) | 75–85°C | 30–50% | No | PETG |
| Carbon Fiber PETG / Hyper CF PETG | 230–260°C, hardened steel nozzle 0.4 mm or larger | 65–85°C | 30–50% | No | CF PETG |
| EconoFil ABS | 230–250°C | 80–110°C; drop 10°C after the first layers | Off, or 10–20% | Yes | ABS |
| EconoFil ASA | 235–255°C | 90–110°C; drop 10–20°C after the first layers | Off, or 10–20% | Yes | ASA |
| Filaments.ca TPU (91A) | 220–240°C | 40–60°C | 50–100% | No | TPU |
| NinjaTek Cheetah (95A) | 235–245°C | 40–60°C | 50–100% | No | Cheetah |
| HIPS | 190–240°C | 60–80°C | Off or low | Recommended | HIPS |
| PMMA (acrylic) | 190–230°C | 60–80°C | Off or low | Recommended | PMMA |
| Wood PLA | 190–210°C; hotter prints darker; 0.5 mm nozzle recommended | 45–60°C | 100% | No | Wood |
| Glow PLA | 190–210°C; the glow pigment is abrasive, so expect brass nozzle wear | 45–60°C | 100% | No | Glow PLA |
The exact range for any roll is also on its product page under Printing temperature.
Bed surfaces and adhesion
- PLA (all three lines): prints straight onto textured or smooth PEI, glass or a BuildTak-style sheet. No glue needed on a clean bed; a brim only for tall, thin parts.
- PETG: bonds too well to smooth PEI and can tear the coating. Use textured PEI, or a thin glue-stick layer on smooth PEI or glass as a release agent. Raise the nozzle a hair (Z offset +0.02 to +0.05 mm) so the first layer is laid down rather than pressed in.
- ABS and ASA: glue stick, Kapton tape or ABS slurry on a 100°C+ bed, a 5–8 mm brim, part fan off and no drafts. Mouse-ear discs on the corners if they still lift.
- TPU: sticks to almost anything, including bare PEI, sometimes too well; glue stick as a release agent on smooth sheets.
Speed, retraction and cooling
- PLA: 40–100 mm/s on a classic printer; 200–300 mm/s on Bambu Lab, Creality K1 or Flashforge 5M-class machines, where Hyper PLA keeps layers bonded. Retraction 0.8 mm direct drive, 4–6 mm Bowden.
- PETG: 60–100 mm/s on a classic printer, 150–200 mm/s on high-speed machines. Less cooling than PLA (30–50%) or layers delaminate; a touch more retraction than PLA to control stringing.
- ABS / ASA: 40–60 mm/s, enclosure closed, fan off except for small overhangs.
- TPU: 20–40 mm/s on Bowden, up to 60 mm/s on direct drive (Cheetah goes faster). Retraction down to 0.5–1 mm or off; disable "wipe" and coasting. Feed the spool from above so the filament is not pulled around corners.
Dry your filament
Moisture is the most common cause of stringing, popping, bubbles, rough surfaces and weak layers, and it shows up long before the roll looks any different. PETG, TPU, ASA and nylon absorb water within days of opening; PLA takes months but gets brittle. Dry PLA at 45–50°C for 4–6 hours, PETG and ASA at 65°C for 4–6 hours, TPU at 55–60°C for 6–8 hours, in a filament dryer or a food dehydrator (not a kitchen oven, which overshoots). Store open rolls in a sealed bag or box with desiccant. Our guide to wet filament covers the symptoms in detail.
Quick troubleshooting
- First layer not sticking: bed not level or nozzle too high; clean the sheet; raise bed temperature 5°C; slow the first layer to 20–30 mm/s.
- Elephant's foot (flared bottom edge): nozzle too close or bed too hot; raise Z offset slightly and drop the bed 5°C after the first layers.
- Stringing: wet filament first; then lower the nozzle 5°C, raise retraction a little, enable "avoid crossing perimeters".
- Weak layers / parts snap along layer lines: nozzle too cold or too much cooling; raise 5–10°C, reduce the fan, slow down.
- Clicking extruder / under-extrusion: partial clog, nozzle too cold for the speed, or a tangled spool. Hot-pull the nozzle, raise temperature, check the spool unwinds freely.
- Corners lifting (ABS/ASA): drafts and a cold bed; close the enclosure, 100°C+ bed, brim, fan off.
Need a hand?
Tell us the material, the printer and what you are seeing and we will suggest settings: hello@filaments.ca or 1-844-465-7684, Monday to Friday. Comparison guides: PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA, TPU, and how to choose the right filament.